The Road to Australia

August 30th, 2006 Hyde Park Inn, Sydney, Australia
Yesterday (the 29th) was our last day in China…at least until we fly back for a day or two at the end of the trip. At 8, we carried our belongings down to the bus and drove away from the Capital Normal University.
We headed to the Silk Market, which wasn’t what I expected. It was a large building, very similar to a mall, but with the same flavor and shop setup as the Muslim quarter in Xian. I found a few interesting items for relatively cheap prices. I stumbled upon a beautiful painting of the Great Wall in winter on a large scroll. A young lady stood next to the shop and said it would be 120 yuan (roughly between $12 and $15). I tried my luck at bargaining (which I’ve found I’m not the best at; Anna Justus is a professional), but this shop owner was very offended.
“I no bargain!” she cried. “I hand paint these and 120 is good price!”
I think I apologized and agreed it was a good price. As she rolled the item up and wrapped it, she started asking my name and where I was from and was pleased when I could pronounce her name correctly. She asked my age and when I told her, she started giggling and fanning herself.
“Ohhh!” she exclaimed. “I am only 22!”
“Oh wow,” I said a little nervously. “Well….umm…I gotta go. Thanks.”
As Will and I walked through the many floors and brushed past the many energetic marketers, we found a little place selling swords. One caught my attention, and I thought it would make a nice companion to the sword I already own. I really didn’t give it a serious thought until we were walking away. The owner yelled after us, “150 for you!”
I stopped. 150 yuan is not even $20. Will looked at me and said, “I’m pretty sure I have room in my suitcase for it.” We turned around and went back.
It was then I found that “150” was actually referring to American dollars and not Chinese yuan. After a few minutes of ‘skilled’ bargaining, including a little bit where Will and I walked away when my desired price was refused, the price dropped to $50……………..so I bought it. Rich saw me carrying it and raised his eyebrows, saying, “You know you’re gonna have to check that?”
My excuse for buying it was Will’s comment about room in his luggage. It’s his fault, Dad. Well, I shouldn’t have to explain, since it’s my money I’m wast…..I mean, spending. Looking back on it and seeing the trouble it has caused me has forced me, to a certain extent, to regret having purchased it.
Our next stop was lunch, and I was thoroughly disappointed. It seems that a large number of our group were tired of the Chinese cuisine and opted we eat somewhere else: McDonald’s. It was our last day in China, and we were eating at American fast food. My goal to go the entire trip without touching the stuff was ruined. If this situation arises again, I will find my meal elsewhere.
The last stop we made was another market: (name). Rich and I frantically searched for a bathroom, feeling the gastrointestinal part of our anatomy a bit bloated since the Big Mac. We found one on the second floor, and it was Chinese styled: no seat, just a hole in the ground. I won’t go into any details, except to say that after a few minutes I hear from Rich’s stall, “Ohhhhhhhhh! You gotta have strong legs!”
I stumbled, with Will’s help, upon a patch of the Chinese flag, something I had been looking for since we first arrived. My backpack at home is covered with patches like this from the countries I have visited. Finding it pretty much made my day. Patrick found a football buried deep within one of the shops and a few of us had a lot of fun throwing it in the parking lot, dodging the tour buses.
On the way to the airport, Ms. Pam got on the loudspeaker, thanking Vince for the wonderful work he had done for our group during our stay in China. He did such a fantastic job and was very patient with those less traveled and always made sure we got to the sites on time. He was given a very nice leather wallet from Australia, along with 7,000 yuan (which is close to $900). I could see Vince was crying behind his sunglasses. He told us we were the best group he had ever had (which, whether or not it was true, was a great compliment) and gave us the only gift he had available: the weighing scale he brought from his house to make sure our bags were the right limit.
“It will be handy,” he said, laughing through his crooked teeth. “It will be handy.”
The sword gave me a little bit of trouble. Will’s bag was not long enough, and the only bag it could (barely) fit into was Greer’s very large North Face backpack. The bottom of the scabbard stuck out of his pack. His bag was too long, so I offered to take it to the oversized baggage area. I set it on the belt and it was whipped through the flaps. A lady from behind the desk walked past me and said, “One moment please.” I never saw her again and I stood at that desk for over thirty minutes while person after person simply tossed their bags through and walked away. No one spoke English and the men who sat there doing nothing repeatedly said, “One minute, one minute.” I was finally told to go to D01, and the lady behind the desk there said everything should be fine; they were just waiting for it to pass through security. I wished she had been working at the other desk thirty minutes earlier. If the sword didn’t make it, I would be all right. It was $50 and, let’s face it, a stupid purchase (although very cool). But I was worried Greer’s bag wouldn’t show up, and most of his stuff was in there.
We had around an hour wait before we boarded Air China Flight 175 to Shanghai. It took around an hour and a half and I spent that time reading Vengeance. It’s the true story of the Israeli secret service team (Mossad) sent to take out the masterminds behind the massacre at the Munich Olympics in 1972. It deals with their exploits and with the questions of ethics and morals they face as they assassinate their targets. The book has been denied and attacked for twenty years, but has never been disproved and also lines up with accounts of the documented killings of the individuals. Steven Spielberg made his moving and powerful Munich last year, which is based on this book.
We landed in Shanghai and spent approximately an hour waiting to board the same plane and sit in the same seats. The flight to Sydney was right at ten hours and I read for awhile before sleeping for almost the reminder of the flight. Even though I was closer to the front this time, I still wasn’t very comfortable. I wanted the emergency exit seats. Those are nice.
At around 9:30, we landed in Sydney, Australia. And I was glad. I have wanted to come here for so long. However, the problems weren’t over yet. Greer’s bag did arrive, with my sword intact. But, as we were going through customs, a large guard asked Greer what was sticking out of his backpack. When he got the answer, he was obviously a little surprised, and when Greer told him it wasn’t his, the guard looked a little worried. I spoke up from behind, explaining it was mine and that it wouldn’t fit in my bag. He allowed us to go through, but made us follow him to a little checking table where he could search our bags. He was friendly and asked about our studies and trip in China, including questions like, “Do you have anything else sharp?” and “Did you bring any illegal drugs?”
The main problem was that on the customs sheet I filled out I had failed to note I was bringing a weapon into the country. I didn’t even think about the swords as one, because it wasn’t sharp and I just wanted to put it above my fireplace someday. I agreed with the guard that it was, indeed, a weapon, and apologized for the error. They ran our bags through the scanner and some very small tablets showed up in my bag.
“I’m going to have to have a look at those,” said the guard.
It turned out they were my allergy medicine. The guard asked why I had not declared my medicine on my customs sheet. The space where this could be done was under section about bringing in medicine “that may be” illegal and such and such.
“I wasn’t aware that allergy medicine was illegal,” I said, but not in a rude or disrespectful way.
“Right, mate, I understand,” he said, “but next time you betta just declare it anyway.”
“Yes, sir,” I said and he wished us a safe trip and sent us on our way. Some of our bags were being taken to Brisbane by bus, so I threw my bigger suitcase, as well as my sword, on the bus, glad to be rid of it for the time being. On the way back, I’m just going to ship it home. I felt bad that Greer had been roped into it all. Although, he did owe me for the toothpaste and deodorant I let him use in Xian.
It was sprinkling outside. The rain slid against the window as we were taken downtown via bus. Our destination was Hyde Park Inn, across from Hyde Park, which I thought made sense. I was rooming with Darren and Pierre, and our rooms were amazing. They were big and comfortable and had a kitchen and a king-sized bathroom with a balcony presenting a fantastic view of the park. This is the way to get 18 hours of college credit. Forget Searcy.
A short orientation was held in the conference room where Ms. Pam gave us a brief itinerary for the next few days. We won’t be in Sydney long, but we will be coming back for an extended visit at the end of the trip. We walked downtown for lunch. The air smelled amazing. It was cool outside and I thought of London and Dublin and Edinburgh and Prague and pretty much all of those great European cities. This was my kind of place. We went down underground into the International Food Plaza where I devoured a beef kebab from a Turkish restaurant. It had humus and was wrapped in pita and I was satisfied.
Will and I then walked around the city together. We were given several hours of free time until dinner. We found a little shop where we bought patches with the flag of Australia and then made our way to Hyde Park. It’s a beautiful place, much like the park of the same name in London or Oxford Park in….Oxford. A towering cathedral was situated across the street and the cloud-spotted sky was very blue now that the rain had stopped. A fountain decorated with statues of Greek mythological figures rested in the midst of the park. Right out the door of our hotel was a war memorial, dedicated to those who had died in service to Australia. An eternal flame buried within.
(written in an Internet Café: Everywhere Internet)
I came back to the hotel for awhile before going running through the park. It was, as before, cool and crisp and I felt really good as I ran around Hyde Park three times (which equaled to 3.5 miles). It was a great way to get around a small part of the city and watch as people ran across streets and onto buses. After I finished a felt invigorated and relaxed. Running in a different country (continent, and island) is a really neat experience. I highly recommend it.
I took a shower (because, frankly, I smelled horrible) and read Vengeance until 6 when we met in the lobby of the hotel and strolled outside and around the corner down to a Pizza Hut. I wasn’t hungry and didn’t end up eating. I think I may have suffered a little from the food poisoning issue. I didn’t want to sit in the (American) restaurant all evening, so I (along with Will, Pierre, Derek, Katie, Kayleigh, and Felicity) walked over to Hyde Park. I wanted to go inside the cathedral and explore, having heard of a mosaic of the world adorning the floor of the crypt. However, we found it closed upon our arrival, which kind of ticked me off. How can you close the doors of a church? People want to take pictures……….and pray and confess! We did have a good time, strolling around the park. A few of us went to an internet café.
I enjoy the freedom we are given to walk around these cities by ourselves. I would have been a little peeved if we were forced to stick with the group the entire time, because I like to branch off and explore on my own. It gives us responsibility. I grow fonder of Australia as time goes by and am incredibly excited about the next (almost) three months. Traveling makes me happy.

The Muslim Quarter

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August 28th, 2006 Capital Normal University, Beijing, China (OK)
As I arrived down in the lobby of the hotel this morning I noticed that our numbers had been reduced significantly. Apparently, the donkey I had enjoyed so much yesterday wasn’t what it seemed. Quite a few of the group had food poisoning and were feeling pretty bad so they were resting in their rooms while those of us healthy enough went out into the rainy day. My stomach had felt pretty bad the day before, but I don’t always notice when I’m sick. I went through four years of high school and all of college (so far) without having missed a day of classes. Perhaps I have a high tolerance for pain.
We made our way into an old section of Xian which was the Muslim quarter. We walked through small alleys and a marketplace which had not yet come to life for the day. We walked inside a gated wall which housed the mosque of the area. I thought it was pretty cool that the mosque was built in the style of the Forbidden City. The courtyard contained a beautiful garden. It was a tranquil spot and I sat down for a few minutes by myself. It’s good for me to be alone every now and then. I can be a bit of loner sometimes.
As we walked out, we found that the marketplace was now bustling. I immediately felt like I was in Jerusalem. The shops were set up in the exact same way, and the corridors and passageways of the place were extremely similar. The shop owners even pulled you into their stores the same way. I ended up buying a pipe. I collect pipes from many of the countries I go to, and this one was in the shape of a dragon. I spent quite a bit of time perusing the shops, enjoying the atmosphere of a busy marketplace. We had some downtime at the hotel before the entire group met at 12:15 for lunch. We ate at the first restaurant we had visited in Xian. Most of the group didn’t eat, but I was pretty hungry. Around twelve or thirteen of us walked down the street to the South Gate. I would love to have seen what all these monuments and buildings and structures looked like in their prime.
The drive to the airport took around forty minutes and the bus remained pretty quiet. People stumbled off the bus and we said goodbye to Willow, who had done an admirable job of leading a bunch of Americans around her city (or ‘citay’ as she would say). Security was uneventful (which is always good) and we were soon air-bound for Beijing. Annie and I made faces at each other across the aisle and people around us were tossing rolls and muffins to friends who didn’t get a whole meal. Even though Air China is possibly my least favorite airline on which I’ve flown, this last flight was a little more entertaining than the others.
We landed in Beijing a little before 7 and, once we gathered a few pieces of luggage from the baggage claim, we drove back to the university. A few people stayed on the bus to go eat dinner at a Chinese pizza place. As much as I really wanted to try it, I had already eaten on the plane and I had other things I needed to do, like wash more clothes in my sink. The others didn’t dry as well as I would have liked, so I hung the latest load of laundry out the window. I really hope they don’t fall during the night, because I can’t afford to loose my underwear.
I ran for the last time on the track outside the building. I’m not trying to be melodramatic or anything, but it is bittersweet to be leaving China. There is so much more I would love to see and do and am sad to be leaving (because I don’t know when I’ll be able to come back and hike the Great Wall!), but I am excited and ready to go to Australia. A second stage of the journey is about to begin.
We fly to Shanghai tomorrow and after a one hour layover, we fly twelve hours to Sydney. China has been absolutely amazing and I will be sorry to see this time end. Thankfully, however, more adventures are ahead.

PS. The Banpo Village was found in 1953 and not in the ‘70s. I was way off.
PSS For some reason, the Internet is moving very slowly, so I was only able to post one picture of this day on the blog. I'll do more when I get the chance.

Terra Cotta Warriors

August 27th, 2006 Bell Tower Hotel, Xian, China
The bed was really comfortable last night, and I found it a little difficult to pull myself from the sheets. However, I overcame, and the group met at 8:30 in the lobby, and then trudged to the bus. Our visit of the day was the Banpo Village Museum. Found in the ‘70s (I think), it was the remains of a 6,000 year old village, older than the recognized dates of Chinese history. I was reminded of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Excavated bones were in separate cases. Dr. Byram and Rich thought that if Pooh (my granddad) were there, he’d be climbing over the railing to get a closer look at the archaeological remains. They said that as I had one foot over the fence.
Outside, two kids were shooting basketball. A few of us joined in. I will only say two things about what transpired: 1. My brother would make fun of me for all eternity if he had seen how ‘well’ I shot and 2. I have some practicing to do once we get to Brisbane.
From there was the factory where they now make terra cotta warriors for gifts and decoration. It was an interesting place, but not on my top five things I’ve seen while I’ve been here. We watched as they pressed the shapes into the clay and then whittled off the excess. It was then fired in a kiln. The gift shop was very big, filled with soldiers of all shapes and sizes. Patrick bought a gigantic archer, almost life-sized, to send home as a joke to his parents. He spent a little over a $1,000 on it. That’s an expensive joke. I suppose they’ll be the only family in Alabama with a terra cotta warrior in their garden.
Lunch was eaten at a small restaurant close to thirty minutes outside Xian. Willow told us we would eat a light lunch to save room for the western buffet at the hotel tonight, and the food might not be very good. As we ate, I didn’t understand what she was talking about. I loved the sesame chicken and donkey.
We arrived at the large complex where, in 1974, the army was found beneath the earth by a farmer. This gentleman was paid 2 yuan (the equivalent of a few cents) for his find, which became one of the Eight Wonders of the World. This very same farmer sat at the entrance to the site, signing autographs. We were told he didn’t like his picture being taken, so I tried the little trick I achieved at the huge sculpture of Buddha. I wasn’t as successful this time. This guy was good. He saw my lens shoot out as my camera came on, so he quickly grabbed a large fan and held it in front of his face. From then on, he watched me wherever I went. I escaped his menacing gaze by following the group into a circular room with screens running along the walls. Presently, a movie came on depicting the history of the Terra Cotta Warriors and of their being found thirty years ago. Apparently, the Chinese have different expectation for dramatic presentation. The information found therein was kind of cool, though. The warriors were for the tomb of the first emperor of China, who had united six (or more) provinces through war. He then began construction on his massive tomb, which lasted almost forty years. 700,000 workers were involved in the process, and 8,000 terra cotta warriors were placed with him to serve him in the afterlife, ensuring his reign forever.
Once the video finished, we filed out of the room and made our way to a museum. Inside was held the two chariots, each one pulled by four horses. They were smaller than I expected, but they were nevertheless remarkably lifelike. I am continually amazed by the craftsmanship of people long ago. They probably deserve more credit than we give them, because they were pretty darn smart. Following the chariots, we visited three pits. The first two were fairly empty except for scattered remains of warriors that had been destroyed hundreds of years ago by marauders who had discovered the tomb on raids throughout the land. The third pit (Pit #1) was the most spectacular. Miniature caverns furrowed through the ground, cutting back hundreds of yards away. In these small valleys stood a great army of the famous warriors. Each one was different than the other; no two looked alike (just like snowflakes and real people!). I walked the entire length of the rectangular-shaped hole, photographing this wonder of the world. Even now these creations demanded respect and I understood (to some extent, because I loved the Great Wall; Dr. Byram and I want to come back someday and walk the entire distance) why Xian is the hottest spot for tourism in China. Even though they were made from dirt and water, these warriors were intimidating. The detail put into their faces and armor was incredible. I was impressed.
I slept the forty or so minutes back to Xian. Most of us ate dinner in the restaurant of the hotel. I enjoyed the skewered octopus and had two pieces of cream caramel in honor of the Grand Pooh-bah. Afterwards, we had a few minutes to relax before we met in the conference room for a small worship service. We sang several songs and enjoyed a guest speaker, who had a very remarkable story to tell. This man, who was Chinese, had been sent to America in 2003 as a visiting scholar, studying in Illinois. During his work, he began reading the Bible as literature and began to believe that the stories about Jesus were true. For a reason that I unfortunately missed, he was visiting Harding’s campus for a few days when he decided to be baptized. Dr. Eddie Cloer baptized him at College Church in Searcy, Arkansas. He is now back in Xian teaching English literature in one of the forty universities in the area. There are 20,000 students at the university, and around 3,000 faculty and they still have a better student to teacher ratio than Harding. This man has, for the first time in the 5,000 year history of China, begun teaching the Bible in a literature course at a university and has places of learning all over the country onboard with this. The government is fine with it as long as it is taught as literature. I thought it was pretty smooth.
Annie and William and I wrestled in the hall after we concluded. I got my workout for the day. Those two are close to unstoppable when they’re together. I’m officially worn out now. We have an extra thirty minutes of sleep tomorrow morning. I am appreciating bedtime very much on this trip.

Xian

August 26th, 2006 Bell Tower Hotel, Xian, China
4:30 is not my preferred awakening time. But the alarm did go off and I was forced to rise and shower, surrounded by my drying socks and underwear (the night before I had washed those particular articles of clothing in the sink; if you haven’t done it recently, you should try it, because I really felt like I was doing something productive). At 5 o’clock, we were on board the bus and driving to the airport. I think I slept the whole way. All the belongings I was taking I had packed in my backpack, so I had very little to lug around. Our plane was delayed for around thirty minutes because of poor weather in Xian. We were finally able to hop on a shuttle bus which brought us to the plane. We boarded China Air Flight 1203 and soon were flying to central China. I tried to sleep, and I did a little bit. I suppose I do harp on the being tall thing occasionally, but I really do think the designers of airplanes didn’t take height into consideration when drawing their plans. An uncomfortable nap later, we landed in Xian and were met by Willow, a tour guide and friend of Vince’s (who accompanied us). A bus was awaiting us outside.
It took approximately forty minutes to drive to Xian. The ancient gates of the city stood as reminders of a golden time long ago. Our first stop was lunch and from there we went to the White Goose Pagoda. It was a building in the shape of a thin ziggurat situated in a garden of trees. Its name derived from a story in which the people cried to Buddha for food. A white goose soon was seen circling the land and fell to the earth, a gift from Buddha. The pagoda was built on the supposed location where the goose fell. It’s an interesting story, but I wondered how that one goose was going to feed the ‘people of the land.’ Someone went hungry.
We walked around to the other side of the pagoda (from where we had come), William on my shoulders singing ‘Little Bunny Foo-Foo.’ We stood on a sort of parapet looking down on a yard of stretching over the length of a football field. It was lined with sixteen rows of small holes. Suddenly, music started and streams of water burst from the holes, timed to the beat and melody of the music. I was pretty impressed. It was an amazing display. People stood in the middle of yard, running through the water is it shot out of the ground. Oh, to have enough dry clothes available to do such things!
We drove to our hotel, which was in the heart of the city. The old bell tower stood in the center of a circle of modern buildings, which included the Bell Tower Hotel. We checked in and deposited our belongings in our rooms. I’m in a room with Derek and Greer. It’s a very nice room, much cooler (temperature-wise) than our rooms at the university. We even have a balcony overlooking the bell tower. We only had thirty minutes to relax before we reconvened in the lobby. I sat waiting for the rest of the group and looked out the window. Several crippled children sat outside in front of the door of the lobby. A girl was on a wooden board with wheels attached, because her legs were horribly twisted and contorted. Ms. Pam (Rich’s mum) told us these children had been bought from farmers in the countrysides and brought into the city to serve as, basically, slaves. They would beg for money, which would in turn go to the men who bought them. A few years ago, the government intervened and transported the children back to their families, temporarily shutting down the operation. However, the men were soon out at the farms again, purchasing their slaves once again. The government doesn’t bother anymore.
Dinner came next. It was a theater dinner, and we arrived at a very large building, inside which was a huge room of tables in front of a wide stage. This was a show commemorating the Tang Dynasty (or, as Willow says, “dynersty”). It was an amazing performance, the best, by far, we have yet seen. It was a fantastic display of colorful costumes, artistic backdrops, and talented musicians and dancers. Some of these instruments are no longer in use except for shows such as these. I loved the show, as well as the food that followed. It was called a ‘dumpling banquet’ for good reason: an enormous variety of dumplings comprised the main courses. Each dumpling was in the shape of what it was before it was turned into a dumpling, like a duck or a pig or shrimp or even a pumpkin. They were all very good. Some of the group are having a little trouble adapting to the various dishes being served to us. I am very thankful I have been given the opportunity by my parents to be exposed to crazy things before. It’s prepared me well.
On the bus, Annie Little found it extremely fun to pull out my hair and bend my fingers in frightening directions. She’s very sneaky, and will wait until I’m not paying attention before she pounces. She’s a great little girl, and I have enjoyed immensely spending time with both her and William.
Outside the window behind me the bell tower stands illuminated amid the neon signs advertising American junk. The only thing between me and the Terra Cotta warriors tomorrow is a beautiful night of sleep.

Day 5

August 24th, 2006 Capital Normal University, Beijing, China
My alarm sounded early this morning. At 7:30, we were on the bus, heading out of Beijing. Our little excursion took us through some remote places, into the ‘real’ China. Bikes are a very prevalent means of transportation in these areas, and even in Beijing. As we drove, I wondered what it would be like to live in these small villages out in the middle of the Chinese nowhere. Then again, I suppose I lot of people ask the same thing about Jellico, Tennessee, which is close to the American nowhere. We weaved our way through the mountains until we came to our destination: the Mutianyu section of the Great Wall. We marched up a path (I had William on my shoulders) to the cable cars which would take us up to the top. It was pretty spectacular riding over the rain forest with the guard towers looming on the distance hilltops. When I was little, I would have been pretty afraid of those cable cars, being once afraid of heights. Once I shot over six feet, I ‘grew’ out of it (I know it was corny; give me a break).
The summit was awe-inspiring. It’s been one of my dreams ever since I was first afflicted with this disease called travelitis to go to the Great Wall. The stone palisades snaked along the crest of the mountains, the mist hovering around them, which it a very surreal aura. It’s difficult to imagine how anyone, even now, could have constructed such a massive architectural wonder. Any army that could climb up through the rain forest and get over the top of these walls pretty much deserved to have China. I wanted to explore every inch of the place. Thankfully, there were very few people atop the wall, which was perfect. This section is approximately two hours from Beijing, which is far enough away from where most tourists will go. I very carefully took a little piece of rock from wall and stuck it in my bag. I would have been really disappointed if the whole thing had just collapsed. It would have cost a lot more than I have.
Five of us (Daniel, Greer, Kevin, Pierre, and I) wanted to go up to the top, which was a pretty decent hike. We had a limited amount of time before we would rendezvous with the group to head down, so we ran across the ancient stones to make our deadline. That’s right: I ran across the Great Wall of China, and I liked it. At a few points, it was pretty steep, but after conquering Masada this summer for the second time in 110°, it really wasn’t too bad. I have this thing for castles and fortresses and really long stone walls, and I just felt at home walking along the ramparts and through the guard towers. The view from the top was amazing. It’s definitely one of my ‘Traveling Highlights.’ From that top point on, the wall had not been renovated. I met some guys this evening who, with a few friends, had spent three days hiking along the wall, camping in the guard towers. I made a note to myself to come back and do that. I was a little reluctant to head down. I could have spent an entire day walking along the wall, taking pictures of every nook and cranny. So far, it has been my favorite place in China.
Poor Jennifer Byram was so sick while we were there. She had some stomach ailment and just felt weak and awful. However, she went along with the rest of us and can say that she climbed the Great Wall with a barf bag. Now that’s saying something.
We descended by way of the cable cars and made our way through the throng of souvenir sellers. I ended up buying a t-shirt (which, I realized later as I tried it on, is a little small) and a miniature of the Great Wall. We boarded the bus and drove back towards Beijing, eating lunch at a little restaurant along the way. We then visited a Cloisonne Factory which, if I remember correctly, is where much of the vases and pottery for the emperors were made. The skill required for such precision and detail is amazing. These ladies sit all day in hot rooms, carefully carving and painting the surfaces of the vases. We watched as one of the nearly finished products was lowered into a furnace and then come up with the patterns and images across it a burning red. We spent some time in the large shop before moving on.
Dinner was next, and it was spent at the famous Peking Duck Restaurant. And it was really good. The duck liver was especially tasty. They actually served duck head, with eye sockets and everything. It had been severed into two pieces and placed on a plate for us. No on was picking them up, so I grabbed one and began pulling the meat from the inside. It wasn’t as tender as the rest, but I thought it was pretty tasty. I got a pretty cool picture of me with the duck’s head inside my mouth. Kayleigh was a little grossed out by it, and I have to admit it was a little strange having the bird’s cranium inside my mouth. Still, it was an experience I had not had, and now I have most certainly experienced it.
We went back to the university afterwards where we met with some missionaries here and some of the Chinese Christians who are in their churches. Gary Jackson and his wife spent ten years in Yugoslavia and almost that same length of time in Russia before coming here two years ago. I very much enjoyed hearing about what they’re doing. I was able to spend quite some time afterwards visiting with Mr. Jackson about their work, and I gave him my email so he could send their newsletter to me. I almost spoke with Marcus and Marvin (the guys who camped at the Great Wall), two brothers who went to school at Pepperdine and have spent the last three years living in China. They grew up in Mexico while their parents served as missionaries there. They originally came for a year and have stayed ever since. It was encouraging to hear their excitement for what they do and the passion they have for the people here.
I had made up my mind after the hike this morning that I wouldn’t run tonight, but I ended up doing it anyway. It’s such a good way to be alone for awhile and think. It’s peaceful and calm on the track and I enjoy that time to myself. However, with the combination of the hike and the walking and the running I am sufficiently tired and the bed next to me looks awfully inviting.

August 25th, 2006 Capital Normal University, Beijing, China
We were on the bus by 7:45 this morning, embarking on another day in the Far East. Our first stop was at a Buddhist temple. We walked into the courtyard where we were met by a monk with a bullhorn. For some reason, he found it necessary to blast Mandarin at us as if that would in any way affect the fact that we didn’t have a darn clue what he was talking about. Vince had to yell so we could all hear the translation. The monk shared with us some of the beliefs of Buddhism, such as the extreme importance of wisdom and peace. Buddhists believe in three incarnations of the Buddha: the past, the present, and the future. The small sanctuaries scattered across the complex housed statues of various interpretations of the Buddha, along with representations of the four kings of the east. One of them contained a very large statue of Buddha that was carved from a single oak tree. This was a very quiet and calm place, as was the Taoist temple. Although it wasn’t nearly as beautiful or inspiring, those places had the same kind of reverent atmosphere as the monasteries of Meteora in Greece.
Once our visit was finished, we drove to Tiananmen Square and to the Memorial Hall dedicated to Chairman Mao. We took the underground passages beneath the streets and came up in the square, where only a few years ago the student revolts turned into a bloody massacre. The fact that the students chose to make their stand before the place commemorating Mao (a man who represented what they were rebelling against) must have added a whole other dimension to their display. We merged into line and soon entered the large building. The first room contained a sculpture of the Communist leader, one leg crossed over the other, his hand resting on his knee. Small shrubs and trees were lined on either side and before it lay dozens of flowers. It seemed strange to honor a man who caused so much death and destruction and turmoil. In the next room was Mao’s body, preserved since his death in 1976. He lay in a coffin, completely enclosed by glass; four guards were positioned around the room. A flag was over his body and his face reminded me of the wax figures in Madame Tussead’s in London. The ‘tomb’ had an eerie feel to it.
Our next stop was Hutong, one of the old portions of Beijing. This was the part of the city I had wanted to see. People sat along the road next to their shops playing checkers and talking. The houses were packed together, enclosed in courtyards by crumbling walls. We were able to leave the bus and ride around in Ped-a-cabs, which is basically a rickshaw pulled by an old bicycle. I rode with Vince in the lead. We arrived in front of the house of a local family who had prepared lunch for us. It was a wonderful meal, all thirty-five of us packed around three tables. They were very gracious, bringing plate after plate of delicious food (such as dumplings with soy sauce and sea weed). It reminded me of my family’s Arab friends. Their hospitality was very much enjoyed, at least by me.
We rode our bicycled carriages back to the bus and bustled over to the Guangming Tea House where we watched a performance. It was interesting and a little unusual. One of the guys involved could hold on to a bowl with his stomach. Big Will from Texas couldn’t rip it off, and this guy pushed him back using the bowl suctioned to his skin. The next fellow was very talented. He whipped around a three pronged spear, twirling it on his hands and back and flinging it around his body. He made it look really easy, but the last time I tried throwing around a spear I put a guy in the hospital. Another guy stabbed a nail through a three inch board of wood using only his hand. He then pulled it back out using two fingers. The last performer was a short, stocky guy with long hair and a beard reaching over his chest. He looked like a cross between Santa Claus and Confucius. But there was something special about this guy: he could swallow swords. He choked down two two-foot swords at the same time. And to top it all off, he swallowed a very large metal ball and then proceeded to pound his stomach and shoot the ball out of his mouth and into the air, catching it in his hand. Now that’s entertainment that anyone can appreciate.
Once the drama of the tea house was over, we went to the Lama Temple. This was the home of the destined-to-be emperors when they were small children, leaving the Forbidden City to a place of their own. The architecture was very similar to that of the aforementioned dwelling of the ancient rulers and, like the other temples previously visited, the air was thick with incense from the large metal burners stationed before each idol-filled building. The most impressive part of this location was the twenty-six meter tall Buddha fashioned from a single white sandalwood tree. To put it bluntly, it was very large. The sign on the front of the building seemed to prefer that we not take pictures inside, but I accidentally shot a few from my waist and had to clear my throat when the beeps of the camera occurred. Strange coincidences I thought.
And then came the Temple of Heaven. We walked down a pathway sided by trees and around to the entrance. A short flight of stairs led to a three-arched gate. I walked through and before me was a vast courtyard paved with stone, reminiscent of the Temple Mount. In the center of the vast square rose a circular plateau of three layers, atop which sat the magnificent temple. Its surface was adorned with gold and blue and red. I walked around in circles, looking at it from every angle. I do love my country, but every so often, America seems somewhat dull when compared to the ancient and magical histories of other cultures.
Dinner was eaten at the Red Mansion. We were led down a hallway and into a little section away from the main eating areas. The most intriguing part of the meal was the large bowl of eel soup. I, of course, tried it and it was remarkably good. It tasted like chicken (actually, more like fish).
The missionaries from last night were holding an English Corner, where Chinese students are able to practice their English. A few girls from our group wanted to go and taxis were sent to pick them up. However, Rich wasn’t comfortable with them going alone. He wanted at least one guy to go along. No one really jumped at the chance. Everyone was a little tired and if they went they wouldn’t get back until past 11, and we have to be up at 4:30 tomorrow morning for our flight to Xian. So, I volunteered to chaper…. I mean, accompany the girls. Once we arrived back at the university, the Jacksons were here waiting, so I was released from my duty. I would have liked to have gone, but I wanted to run and write and sleep. I felt a little guilty, but such is life.
I did, in fact, go running and am, in fact, writing. The only thing that now remains to be done is sleep.

August 23rd, 2006 Capital Normal University, Beijing, China
Yesterday (the 22nd), I woke up a little before seven for 7:30 class. I can’t say I was particularly thrilled about that. I can say that sleep felt very, very good. We met in a classroom on the other side of the university’s complex. Only Rich’s classes met. International Studies met first, followed by Australasian Civilization. I think I will definitely enjoy both. All the classes will definitely be requiring a fair amount of work, but the seven weeks we are in Brisbane just focusing on school will help subdue whatever stress accompanies the reading and projects and reports. Everyone then gathered for chapel. Darren spoke and did a good job.
Missionary Anthropology convened afterwards, and I think this may be my favorite class. I think not being on Harding’s campus will free up the discussion somewhat, and Rich seems to a very open-minded person. I really think this is going to be a very meaningful and fulfilling class. He plans on taking us to different churches in Brisbane and meeting with a Jewish rabbi for some classes as part of the credit.
At 12, we again hopped on the ole bus and drove through the city, past ornately decorated gates and Tiananmen Square. We arrived at a very busy restaurant where they waiters yelled something akin to “Oopa!” as they brought the food, which was very good. A guy with a head full of hair and a thick beard joined us. His name was Daniel, and he had graduated from Harding in December. He has been in China since February (and will be here for a full year) teaching English with a mission program called China Now. I think I could do that.
Once we had sufficiently supped, we drove to a Taoist temple. One of the masters, dressed in a loose white shirt and black pants with a black hat, led us through the courtyards as Vince translated. It was a beautiful facility. People lit candles and bowed several times before different doorways, quietly praying. We went into a Spartan classroom where the master told us about Taoism. It began as a philosophy which, over time, became a prominent religion in China. It deals much with man’s relationship to nature and being at peace with oneself. It encourages healthiness and longevity of life. Taoism consists of many gods, and two different kinds: legends (such as god of thunder, etc.) and ‘real’. People can become gods if they perform good deeds in life for society. They believe in a “Do nothing” philosophy: if something is necessary, do it; if it is not, then don’t.
This discussion (which I found extremely interesting; I do still plan on sickin’ with Jesus, I’m just saying…) lasted for some time. A female master then displayed for us the art of Tai Chi, which helps achieve the peach and harmony required in Taoism. It consists of very fluid movements and it really seemed to be relaxing. It can be used as a form of fighting, but its main purpose seems to be as a method of relaxation. I really enjoyed that experience and am excited to visit the Buddhist temple in a few days (does Harding know we’re doing this?).
We had dinner in a very nice hotel. I visited with Leslie, a doctor who is traveling with us for our time in China. She’s taking some time off residency and is at the moment working with Dr. Hopper in the international programs office for Harding. She has my dream job: getting paid to travel. After China, she is going to Florence and then Greece with the Harding students, and will then be departing for Africa to survey a medical mission. Maybe I should talk to Dr. Hopper once I graduate.
Our entertainment for the evening was an acrobatic show. The way people are able to contort their bodies into the most unique positions never ceases to amaze me………or disturb me. I can’t imagine the hours these people put into training for this, because they were incredibly fit and were doing some pretty remarkable stuff.
Back at the hotel, I ran again before going to bed. It’s cool outside at night, and I can look around at the buildings and streets. It doesn’t always look so different from America, but there’s something about the smell and the atmosphere. There’s something about being in another country that is just refreshing.


TODAY, I didn’t have to get up so early. Statistics was the first class, and I DO NOT have to take it, because I am done with math FOREVER!! Anywho, I awoke at a little past 8 for an 8:45 class, which was Sociology. Today was Dr. Byram’s day. Wearing a very Hawaiian-esque shirt, he put one foot on a chair and leaned on his knee (this seems to be ‘his stance’: it was pretty cool) as he talked with us about our subject. Psychology met after chapel (after which I closed with a prayer). I am looking forward to these classes. Dr. Byram will expect quite a bit, but I know I will learn a lot. The two can connect so easily, and being in totally different societies than America will provide a perfect study for both classes.
We were picked up for lunch and ate what was called an ‘Emperor Lunch.’ We had duck again, along with fish and an amazing kind of tea. Not many in the group drank, but Dr. Byram and I were downing those glasses like we thought it was alcohol and we had emotional problems. After that Arabic coffee this summer in Israel, I think I can drink just about anything. I was telling a few people about my blog when Dr. Byram made a very good point: I should see if Rich will let that count as credit for his classes. When I passed it by him, Rich said, feigning frustration, “I think Dr. Byram should mind his own business.” He then added, “Actually, I think it’s a good idea. I think we should talk about it.” I think it’s a good idea, too.
We walked across the street from the restaurant and found ourselves in Tiananmen Square. It was large and filled with people. The great Memorial Hall sat on one end with an obelisk dedicated to Chairman Mao situated in front of it. We went on an underground road to the other side of the street where we entered the Forbidden City. I understand now why it’s called a city: it’s pretty large. We spent all afternoon walking through the different sections of the ancient emperors’ domain. Even though in places scaffolding and translucent tarps were set up over buildings for Olympics renovation, it was a very majestic place. The Chinese are very adept at intricate decorations. Motifs of dragons and lions can be seen everywhere. Gate after gate presented a whole new wonder to behold. These emperors had it made. I got a lot of my money’s worth out of my camera in there. Some of my pictures aren’t turning out as well as I would like. The sky is very bright, which isn’t ideal and it’s difficult to tell whether or not everything is in focus and visible through the viewfinder. Alas.
The Secretary of Defense of Kenya was visiting the Forbidden City that day. Rich and I were taking pictures of this magnificently carved stone mosaic when Chinese guards in white shirts and black pants started pushing us out of the way to make room for the special guest. In a very polite, Christian manner, we kind of pushed back. We had pictures to take. The secretary and his entourage were surrounded by these guards, who made sure no one got too close. I suppose I understand the need for protection, but I highly doubt the Secretary of Defense of Kenya is on anybody’s “Top 10 List to Assassinate before I Die.” On the way out, the street vendors were ridiculous. I haven’t experienced that kind of behavior since I was in the Old City of Jerusalem in 2001 (which was soon after the intifada broke out). One guy followed all the way down the street, hounding me to buy whatever he had. I was interested in two wooden lion statuettes, which were replicas of the stone sculptures that stood on the either side of some of the doorways in the Forbidden City. Partly because I wanted a souvenir from China and partly because I wanted this guy to leave me alone, I agreed to buy them for 80 RMBs. I handed him a 100, and he then shoved a little box of six or seven Buddhas making some awkward faces and ran away. I didn’t really want them; not because I have something wrong with it religiously (I have a statue of Poseidon from Greece at home), but because I found the little dudes a little bit unnerving. They kept smiling at me and it made me uncomfortable.
We ate dinner in Western and Chinese buffet. It was very good. It’s probably superfluous to say it, but American Chinese food isn’t the same as Chinese Chinese food. The latter is better. The shrimp and sesame chicken are, as my dear friend Ryan Reed would say, “succulent.” Patrick from Alabama and Daniel and I talked about sports and American Psycho (which I don’t recommend, but Christian Bale’s performance is pretty much amazing). The Byrams and all the girls (including a few of the guys) wanted to go to the Pearl Market. Rich, his mum, and the kids, along with five guys (Ashley, Greer, Derek, Daniel, and I) opted to go back to the university. The Littles crowded into a cab, and the rest of us followed in two separate taxis. Derek and I rode in one. Now that is the way to see Beijing. It’s much more of a cultural experience than that big ole bus. We flagged one down, gave him directions, and sped through the city. Derek and I discussed the intricacies and artistry of Tolkien as we went.
Rich and I ran together tonight. It was really good. We had a great time of conversation concerning problems in Christianity and the incredible need for unity. I felt very encouraged after talking with him and hearing his perspective on things. I have so many crazy thoughts and it’s good to have other outlets for these thoughts than my (very wise and thoughtful) parents. I will most certainly enjoy talking more with Rich as time goes on.
Tomorrow we have an early start, because we are spending the day at the Great Wall of China.

In China

August 19th, 2006 Knoxville Airport
My family and I left for Knoxville at around lunchtime Saturday. We needed to make a few stops to search for some things which might come in handy on the trip. We then headed for the airport. I checked my two suitcases, leaving only my green backpack. I then hugged my family goodbye and went through security.
The alarm went off and one of the guards started going through my bag. I thought perhaps the nail clippers might have set it off, but then realized they were in my toiletries bag, which was in one of my checked suitcases. Then the guard pulled a very large knife from the bottom of my bag. It’s one of those knifes that folds out with fifteen blades and scissors and pliers and everything needed to pull of a plane heist. I took that same backpack to Israel earlier this summer, and it wasn’t in there at that time (believe me, they would’ve found it). I don’t know how my entire family, who have traveled so much and to places such as Israel, missed something so……….sharp. The guard was very kind, however, and gave the knife to my family, who were standing just outside security.
I went to my gate and sat down, awaiting the departure of my plane. I looked out the big window at Gate 3. Across the expanse of the airport I saw my family, frantically waving their arms at me. I waved back after awhile, but I’m not sure they noticed, because the wasn’t exactly as expressive as their gestures. I was wearing my yellow “Harding University in Australia” (HUA) rugby shirt, and if I had waved like they did, we could’ve had an airplane flying through our little window. That’s not covered in my insurance.

August 20th, 2006 LAX, onboard Air China Flight 984
My flight to LA from Atlanta was changed to a different gate once I arrived, so I found my way to the shuttles. I met Julie and a boy name Ashley, both from Georgia and both going on the HUA trip. Four and a half hours later, I saw the expanse of lights which was Los Angeles. The three of us walked outside our terminal and stood by the street, waiting for transportation to Terminal 2 (from which our Air China flight would depart). After ten or fifteen minutes, nothing came, so I asked a security guard standing nearby; the reason a bus hadn’t come to take us to Terminal 2 was because Terminal 2 was that big building right across the street and down the sidewalk.
The ticket counter line was extremely long. I think we stood there for two hours. A Chinese holiday must be coming up, because it seemed like everybody was going home the same night we were leaving. I met most of the group there. Rich Little (a good friend of the family’s and one of the professors) and two of his kids, Annie and William, were there. His wife Heather, who is pregnant, flew on to Australia with Shelby, their middle child. Dr. Gary Byram (the other professor, and also a good friend of the McRays’) and his wife Wendy and their fourteen-year-old daughter Jennifer soon arrived also. After the long wait in line (which really wasn’t too bad compared to Israel), we went through security (I was afraid they’d find a gun this time) and finally sat down. However, William Little would not let me rest. He’s four years old and likes to cut off my arms with his pencils. We’re really good buds, though. He’s awesome, and so his sister, Annie (and Shelby, but she wasn’t around at this point). William wants to buy rubber bands so we can have a war. That’s my kind of guy.
I was put on the back of this plane…..again. They always stick the tall kid in the back, and they always board the back last. I do have the whole middle aisle to myself expect for an elderly man from Iran who is sitting on the far end.

August 21, 2006 Capital Normal University, Beijing, China
Sixteen hours on a plane isn’t too bad, especially when you sleep almost twelve hours of the flight. It was hard to get comfortable, but I did sleep for quite some time, even though I woke up from time to time because of soreness in my neck. I woke up at one point to see the Iranian gentleman’s head almost in my lap. Awkward. He had decided to use those two extra seats (plus his own) as a bed. Other than that little experience, the flight was uneventful.
At 5:30 in the morning, on August 21st, I landed in my 21st country (if you include America and Northern Ireland): the People’s Republic of China. After customs, we found our way to the baggage claim area. Twenty-eight people with two or three bags each adds up to a lot of luggage. We hauled it outside where we met Rich’s parents. His
‘mum’ (he’s Australian) organized the China part of our journey. We dumped everything on a bus and drove off into the city. A Chinese tour guide name Vincent (or Vince) gave a brief overview of the city and of China. He had a tendency to repeat the last word or two of each sentence and then adding a “yes” to that. “Beijing is a very old city…..old city, yes.” “The Muslims here are very peaceful……very peaceful, yes.” “You will enjoy the food……the food, yes.” “Old city is Beijing…….Beijing, yes.” He did have very good English and seems to know a lot about history and culture.
After forty-five minutes of driving, we arrived at Capital Normal University, which would serve as our base for our stay in China. It’s a very nice facility. As of right now, I’m sharing a room with Darren Hoggatt, who was my suitemate the first year at Harding. The rooms are comfortable and I have a great view of the city from the window. The bathroom is very cool because you can brush your teeth, sit on the pot, and take a shower all at the same time. It reminds me of the little cottage Honey and Pooh (my dad’s parents, for those who don’t know) stayed in while we lived in Greece. They probably had it better, because they could also make a cup of tea.
As I write, it is 9:15 AM. China is twelve hours ahead of Eastern U.S. time. I’m feeling a little tired, but the best way to conquer jetlag is to stay awake until bedtime. In three hours, we’re meeting with the entire group for a sort of orientation, and then going out into the city. I’m likin’ this stuff so far……..

LATER THAT DAY…. (written August 22nd, 2006)
We had orientation later that day in a classroom on the other side of the building. We were told a little about the rules (pretty much same on campus in Searcy) and some about classes. We then headed to the bus and drove to a restaurant known as the Nine-headed Fish Chain Restaurant. It was a very interesting meal, consisting of chicken foot, duck neck, sea weed, and pork foot. And it was all really good. Some people had a pretty difficult time with it, but I just dove in and ate a little bit of everything. How often are you gonna eat real Chinese food in China? I mean..come on.
After our very cultural meal was finished, we found our way to the Summer Palace. It was an absolutely amazing labyrinth of buildings and courtyards, built by one of the emperors long ago. It was built in the tradition of the gardens of the south, and for a time it also housed the emperor’s mother. The longest corridor in the world can be found there, which stretches at a length of 728 meters. It overlooked a large man-made lake, in the middle of which sat the Temple of the Dragon, god of the water, with a nine-arched marble bridge running to the shore. It was a very impressive place. I was certainly in awe of the artistry of the Chinese.
Near the end of our little tour, an old man walked up to me and said, “Do you have pen?” I pulled one out of my notebook and handed it to him. He then proceeded to carve something into the side of it with a knife, asking me where I was from. I gently but firmly pulled my pen from his hands and said, “I don’t have any money for that.” This was true, because I hadn’t yet found an ATM. I can’t be sure, but I think he might have growled as he walked off.
Once we had completed walking through the vast Summer Palace, we drove to the Central TV Tower, and went up over half of the 400 meters of the tower to the revolving restaurant. Now that was really nifty. As we ate, the restaurant revolved, providing us with a panoramic view of the Beijing at night. The sun set behind the mountains in the distance, and it was most certainly one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen. There was a bit of mist, and the sun lit it up over the dark mountains and cast an orange glow on the valley. I took a view pictures.
We then headed back to the university, tired and ready for bed, although it was only a little past 8. I went outside to a rather long sprinting track next to the university and ran thirty laps before I downloaded my pictures and went to bed. It was a little after 10, and I feel asleep listening to the sounds a busy city at night. It might have annoyed me at other times, but, hey, I’m in China. Probably shouldn’t be complaining about anything.


I am writing most of this in little notes in a leather-bound notebook and then transferring it to my laptop once I have a port for my computer. I’m putting down the dates I wrote all this because when I post it on the blog it’s giving an incorrect date. And who cares when it was posted: it only matters when it was written. And now I finally have the Internet working.

On the way

It is time for the journey to begin. Tomorrow, I will be on my way, flying from Knoxville to Atlanta, and then continuing to Los Angeles where I will meet the rest of my group: 28 students and the professors and their families. It's taken a lot of time and effort to gather all the things required for a three month trip. I have finally taken care of everything (I think) and am ready for the long flight to Beijing. And so, with short hair and a clean-shaven face (I want to compare for when I come back with long hair and a beard), I prepare to depart the hills of Tennessee for the sea and the lands beyond.

picture

I'm just testing out whether this picture stuff is gonna work.

first entry

Welcome to my newly created blog! Pretty cool, huh? I created this as a way to talk about my upcoming trip to the faraway lands of China, Australia, and New Zealand (hence the title "The Wanderer"; I thought it poetic...or something) without the drudgery of sending out constant emails. And, this way, I can post my pictures.

I'm looking forward to writing about this trip, and I hope you all find it enjoyable also. Thanks!